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Back at the Hermitage for a second day -- the place could literally take weeks to fully comprehend. The collection they have is immense and notable for its breadth and depth, even if its quality is not always top notch. There are some incredible pieces, world shattering pieces, but they are fewer and farther between than in some smaller but more impactful collections.

The thing that sets the Hermitage apart from other world-class art museums (though it is definitley in the top five) is the museum itself. I have never experienced, and frankly cannot imagine, a more glorious setting in which to view fine art.

It is, after all, at it's heart a palace, and what makes a palace a palace? Why a throne, and throne room, of course.

The room itself is ornate and beautiful an the throne impressive, but it is also johnny-come-lately. Remember, St. Petersburg was built only beginning in the 1700's. The coronation throne, dating back to Ivan the Terrible, the first true Tsar of all the Russias still resides in the Kremlin. Frankly, as beutiful as this throne and room was, it did not strike me with the power of say the British coronation throne, a rather plain affair in Westminster Abbey which looks terribly frail now that the Stone of Scone has been returned to Scotland, or even the Queen's throne in the House of Lords.

The delicay of the 18th century architecture fails, in my opinion, to convey the awesome power the monarch actually had.

Now this hallway was impressive. This picture gives the overall impression but cannot possibly convey the detail present and the absolute mastery involved in creating it.The walls are all painted copies of Raphael frescoes. The Russians themselves admit to being masterful mimics and this hall proves the point more than almost any other place.

They have rendered the frescoes almost perfectly in paint, including texture. Copying, yes, but masterful copying indeed. The effect is quite busy, but in a pleasant and enjoyable way. This, along with the Malachite Room, as my personal favorites in the Hermitage.


This was just fun -- It's the third time I have seen the coronation coach of Catherine the Great. I saw when I was there in '91 and again when it was here in LA at the Hammer Museum. Is it ornate enough for you? I find it somehow suitable considering how the lady got the throne. She was full blooded German you know, imported to be a bride to a future Tsar husband of questionable ruling capability and sexual orientation. She bore a son of most uncertain paternity and her husband died under very questionable circumstances, after which she declared herself sole and supreme ruler of Russia. With that kind of back story why not go all out when you are getting crowned, eh?

While we're in Russia, yesterday's OpinionJournal contained a great piece by Edvard Radzinsky about the changing role of women in post-Soviet Russia. It's great to get this perspective from a native.

Where shall we turn tomorrow? Only tomorrow will tell.